Extensive Definition
A tassel is a binding
of plaited or otherwise
gathered threads from which
at one end protrudes a cord on
which the tassel is hung, and which may have loose, dangling
threads at the other end. Tassels are normally decorative elements,
and as such one often finds them attached, usually along the bottom
hem, to garments, curtains, or other
hangings.
The word 'tassel' comes from the Latin "tassau"
which meant a clasp (as
for the neck of a garment). Tassels, or liripipes, are also found on
mortarboards during graduation ceremonies and possibly upon the
shoes of the men at graduation. The tassel is a universal ornament
that is seen in varying versions in every culture around the
globe.
Near the conclusion of the graduation ceremony
the tassel that hangs from the graduate's mortarboard is moved from
the right to the left. Typically the entire graduating class does
this in unison.
A tassel is primarily an ornament, and was at
first the casual termination of a cord to prevent unraveling with a
knot. As time went on, various peoples developed variations on
this, until by the time of sixteenth century in France the first
Guild of Passementiers was created and documented the art of
passementerie. The
tassel was its primary expression, but it also included fringes
(applied, as opposed to integral), ornamental cords, galloons, pompons, rosettes,
and gimps as
other forms. Tassels, pompons, and rosettes are point
ornaments; the others are linear ornaments. The parts of a tassel
are basically, from top to bottom:
- Its suspending cord
- Its body, which is usually made up of one or more moulds
- A skirt of fringe or other ornaments.
Tassels were originally, in the Western
World, a series of windings of thread or string around a
suspending string until the desired curvature was attained. Decades
later turned wooden moulds, which were either covered in simple
wrappings or much more elaborate coverings called "satinings", were
used. This involved an intricate binding of bands of filament silk
vertically around the mould by means of an internal 'lacing' in the
bore of the mould. These constructions were varied and augmented
with extensive ornamentations that were each assigned an
idiosyncratic term by their French practitioners. Those
practitioners were called in France "Passementiers", and an
apprenticeship of
seven years was required to become a master in one of the
subdivisions of the guild. The French widely exported their very
artistic work, and at such low prices that no other nation
developed a mature "Trimmings" industry. Tassels and their
associated forms changed style throughout the years, from the small
and casual of Renaissance
designs, through the medium sizes and more staid designs of the
Empire period, and to the Victorian
Era with the largest and most elaborate. Some of these designs
are returning today from the European and American artisans who may
charge a thousand dollars for a single hand-made tassel.
References
- Guide to Passementerie. Scalamandre Silks. New York.
- Boudet, Pierre and Bernard Gomon.. La Passementerie. Dessain et Tolra: 1981. ISBN 978-2249251085.
- Pegler, Martin. The Dictionary of Interior Design. Fairchild Publications: 1983. ASIN B0006ECV48.
tassle in Aymara: K'anchila
tassle in German: Quaste
tassle in Esperanto: Kvasto
tassle in Spanish: Borla